It's All In The Game

Andrea McVeigh finds some of her favourite food in Hillsborough


While driving along the motorway towards Hillsborough one cold, dark Tuesday night in January, I was beginning to have reservations about our reservation at Bar Retro Bistro.

"You realise that we'll probably be the only people there?" I said to my husband Patric. "Who's going to be going for a meal in the middle of nowhere on a night like this?"

Happily I was wrong on both counts - Hillsborough is probably one of the prettiest towns in Ulster, even on a winter's night and, given that it's only twenty minutes from Belfast, it's certainly not the middle of nowhere!

We got a warm welcome, both from the staff and from the cosiness of the surroundings when we arrived at The Bistro, which is accessed by stairs at the back of the Plough Inn, located on the town's main square.

There were plenty of diners already tucking in just after 7pm, and we were shown to a table for two in the middle of the large L-shaped dining room.

Sitting by the window, I looked out over the magnificent Georgian terraces and dreamed of the day when I could afford to buy one and pop over to Bar Retro and eat good food every night for the rest of my life - oh well, back to reality, I suppose!

The decor is a clever blend of traditional and ultra modern, with wooden panelling complemented by some particularly space-age-looking lighting and there is a nice mix of open tables and more private dining booths in the room.

It wasn't long before the restaurant was almost at capacity, with a real mix of customers ranging from the obviously well-heeled locals of all ages to  glamorous young couples and several 'girly' groups.

The menus appeared and our drinks order was taken almost immediately and to say I was pleasantly surprised by the food selection would be something of an under-statement.

'Pheasantly' surprised would be more appropriate, as my favourite food at the moment is game, which, apart from the obligatory duck and occasional venison dishes, I find is something of a rarity on many menus nowadays.

I was actually spoilt for choice for a starter, with Tempura of Tayto Castle Pheasant, a Three-way Game Skewer or Japanese Marinated Venison all featured as first course options.

I eventually selected the skewer, which turned out to be a grilled kebab of pigeon, partridge and duck meat, served with an oriental chilli dip.

Delicious, of course, and my husband had a less-exotic, but no less appetising, dish of melted brie on a slice of lightly toasted bread, served with roasted beetroot and a salad of rocket, walnut and sunflower seeds.

Another dilemma with the main course selection awaited - in addition to the many game dishes, there were plenty of delicious-sounding steaks, fish dishes and vegetarian options, such as Thai Veggie Curry, Spanish Omelette and Tempura of Vegetables.

I almost chose the Fresh Fish Parcel, salmon and sea bream with Asian-style veg and steamed coconut rice, but no - it was either going to be the Venison Cutlet, Larchfield Pheasant or the house special, Chinese Red Duck.

Finally, the decision was made - I had the pheasant, which was plump and very tasty and came served with tender root vegetables and a delicious jus made from cranberry and redcurrants, and my glass of Merlot proved to be an ideal accompaniment to it.

Luckily, my other half chose the duck, which he pronounced to be amongst the best he had eaten for quite some time and I, after having several mouthfuls, was in full agreement.

Two succulent legs were served on a bed of noodles and he reckoned the skin, which he usually discards as it can be flabby and fatty, was divine - crispy and flavoured with honey, ginger and mandarin syrup.

The portions were such that the side order of garlic fries remained almost untouched and the selection of breads, which I always insist on in case I still feel like a nibble after my plate has been cleared, were certainly not required, although the tapanade dip which accompanied them was superb.

There was a short break in proceedings while the dessert menu was produced - true to form, I could barely even look at it but hubby was eager to fill his stomach to the brim.

He's not a fan of chocolate puddings, of which there were several to choose from, but a Trio Of Asian Brulees - mango and ginger, passion fruit and lychee and pear and cardamom and a Warm, Forced-Rhubarb Crumble emerged as front runners.

He decided that something warm was required to set him up for the homeward journey and the crumble, served with a sweet dollop of custard was just the ticket.

THE LOWDOWN
Our meal, with soft drinks and a glass of wine, came to £59.90

FACT FILE 
Bar Retro at The Plough Inn
3 The Square
Hillsborough 
Co. Down
028 9268 0939

Website: www.barretro.com
 
RATING 
4 out of 5